
Annapurna 2005: Italian climber on the north face just below high camp at 22,000 feet.
Ed Viesturs' Personal Training Regimen
"My training philosophy has changed over my career. I train year round now. Early in my career, I would increase the intensity of training during the last two months prior to an expedition. Invariably, I would injure myself doing this and the end result was that I would have to lay off training recover in time for the climb.
"Training year round gives me the endurance and strength that I need during a long and arduous expedition. Climbing is so taxing on the body you cannot get fit during - you must be fit before you go. My training is guided by two principles: Simple and Steady. I focus on endurance and cardiovascular strength by running and lifting weights. Ultimately, there's no better training for climbing than strapping on a pack and heading out into the mountains. But, it is hard to always go climbing especially with a family and a business to run. I was forced to choose: be a vet or be a climber. I chose the mountains."
Typical Schedule
Running: Typically 7-8 miles a day on hilly roads (approximately 1 Hour) - 4 days on, 1 day off.
Weight Training: I try to train with weights two to three times a week. I work all parts of my body and try to focus on my core as well. The exercises I do simulate the movements that I make while climbing, lifting a pack, shoveling snow, and climbing steep and varied terrain. Many exercises are done while balancing on inflated half balls or while standing on one leg. I do a low number of sets with a high number of repetitions keeping the weight moderate for strength and endurance. This upper body work helps me when carrying a pack, shoveling a tent platform, and provides me general strength to make it through a long day in the mountains.
Other Activities: For variety, a little fun and to take advantage of the Northwest environment, I mix up my traditional training with biking, skiing, and kayaking. These are done in place of regular training and allow me to consistently work out different muscle groups.
Consistency: I travel a lot so I make a point of working out on the road. There is no excuse not to work out while traveling. I always make sure to get a hotel that has a descent gym. I get at least an hour on the stationary bike, treadmill, and stair-stepper and I'll also use the weight machines.