Endeavor 8000:
The 14 Tallest Peaks
- Kangchenjunga
- Everest
- K2
- Lhotse
- Cho Oyu
- Makalu
- Gasherbrum II
- Gasherbrum I
- Broad Peak
- Manaslu
- Dhualagiri
- Shishapangma
- Nanga Parbat
- Annapurna
More Climbing Tips from Ed
What is your first step for the perfect climb? Ed shares his tips - from how to pick a hiking partner to what to eat at 14,000 feet - in Backpacker Magazine.
Ed also touring lecture, speaking events
Ed Viesturs is available for lectures at your next event. His lectures are based on his experiences from 27 years of climbing and include a PowerPoint presentation with dramatic expedition photos.
Watch Ed and First Ascent Team on National Geographic Adventure
Excerpts from the book
Listen to an exclusive reading from "No Shortcuts to the Top":
Annapurna 2005: Italian climber on the north face just below high camp at 22,000 feet.
Ed Viesturs' Personal Training Regimen
"My training philosophy has changed over my career. I train year round now. Early in my career, I would increase the intensity of training during the last two months prior to an expedition. Invariably, I would injure myself doing this and the end result was that I would have to lay off training recover in time for the climb.
"My training philosophy has changed over my career. I train year round now."
"Training year round gives me the endurance and strength that I need during a long and arduous expedition. Climbing is so taxing on the body you cannot get fit during - you must be fit before you go. My training is guided by two principles: Simple and Steady. I focus on endurance and cardiovascular strength by running and lifting weights. Ultimately, there's no better training for climbing than strapping on a pack and heading out into the mountains. But, it is hard to always go climbing especially with a family and a business to run. I was forced to choose: be a vet or be a climber. I chose the mountains."
Typical Schedule
Running: Typically 7-8 miles a day on hilly roads (approximately 1 Hour) - 4 days on, 1 day off.
Weight Training: I try to train with weights two to three times a week. I work all parts of my body and try to focus on my core as well. The exercises I do simulate the movements that I make while climbing, lifting a pack, shoveling snow, and climbing steep and varied terrain. Many exercises are done while balancing on inflated half balls or while standing on one leg. I do a low number of sets with a high number of repetitions keeping the weight moderate for strength and endurance. This upper body work helps me when carrying a pack, shoveling a tent platform, and provides me general strength to make it through a long day in the mountains.
Other Activities: For variety, a little fun and to take advantage of the Northwest environment, I mix up my traditional training with biking, skiing, and kayaking. These are done in place of regular training and allow me to consistently work out different muscle groups.
Consistency: I travel a lot so I make a point of working out on the road. There is no excuse not to work out while traveling. I always make sure to get a hotel that has a descent gym. I get at least an hour on the stationary bike, treadmill, and stair-stepper and I'll also use the weight machines.
